Learn how to draw realistic eyes across pyrography, coloured pencil and graphite. A gentle, honest guide from Kez at Phoenix Academy,
Let's break this down, because eyes have a reputation, and honestly, it's a bit unfair.
They get called the hardest part of any realistic portrait. The part that makes or breaks the whole piece. And because of that reputation, a lot of artists avoid them entirely. Trust me, I know. I was one of them.
For the longest time, I picked my portrait subjects really carefully, and it wasn't for artistic reasons either. I chose angles and poses that let me dodge eyes altogether. I would pick a lowered gaze, or my favourite was adding steampunk goggles, anything that meant I didn't have to sit down and actually tackle one properly.
Then one day, I just had to push through that barrier. And here's the thing, it turned out to be so much easier than I'd built it up to be in my head. The fear had been doing all the heavy lifting, not the actual technique.
The piece here in this post is a graphite eye study I did recently. Nice and gently, layer by layer, there's no magic trick. Just patience.
Before we get into the differences between mediums, here's the bit that stays exactly the same whatever you're holding:
Pyrography. You're working in tonal contrast through heat, so the whole eye lives or dies on your temperature control. Too hot too early and you lose the ability to build up those soft mid-tones in the white of the eye. I always establish my darkest darks (pupil, lash line, iris shadow) last, once I know exactly how much contrast the rest of the piece can hold.
Coloured pencil. This is where you can be most patient, because you can always add another layer. Build the iris in thin rings of colour, working from the outer edge inward, and leave your catchlight completely untouched by colour until the very end. It's tempting to add it early. Don't. It's much easier to preserve white paper than it is to try to lift colour back off the paper.
Graphite. No colour to hide behind, so it comes down entirely to values. This is honestly the best medium to practise eyes in first, because it strips the problem down to its purest form: light, shadow, and how dark you're willing to go. The eye study here started with a light structural sketch, then built up in stages, so I could keep adjusting contrast right until the end.
If I'd known any of this before I started dodging portraits with eyes in them, I'd have saved myself a good few years of unnecessary detours. Wherever you're starting from, whatever tool is in your hand, the eyes are worth pushing through for.